Menswear might move at a fraction of womenswear’s breakneck pace – its seasonal shifts more subtle than seismic – but that’s not to say each season doesn’t birth new trends. New modes of dressing. New ideas.
Like all ideas, some of these trends are commendable, and some, well, some are crap. Which is why we’ve compiled a list of trends to skip if you don’t want your style to suffer. Thank us later. When you’re returning that puce-coloured embroidered silk suit.
There are limits to athleisure. While sweatshirts, sweatpants and trainers may be tolerable, nay stylish, junk-exposing 1980s gym shorts most definitely aren’t. That didn’t, however, stop Topman Design from trying to make them happen, showing a series of neutral and neon styles cut so short we feared Dick Owens 2.0.
Christopher Shannon, the Scouse designer celebrated for his tongue-in-cheek approach to style, also showed shorts that skimmed groins. And were perhaps a little too cheeky.
Fix: Mid-Thigh Shorts
To air your legs without indecent exposure, opt for shorts with a little more surface area. A mid-thigh chino or tailored pair looks neater than a longer, baggier style but still stops short of baring all. Which is – I think we’re all agreed – best for everyone involved.
(Related: The Dos and Don’ts of Wearing Shorts)
Key Pieces
J. CREW 9 STRETCH STANTON SHORT
ASOS SKINNY CHINO SHORTS IN LIGHT KHAKI
RIVER ISLAND PINK SLIM CHINO BUCKLE SHORTS
RIVER ISLAND GREY SLIM CHINO SHORTS
AMI SLIM-FIT COTTON-TWILL CHINO SHORTS
RIVER ISLAND TAN SKINNY CHINO SHORTS
UNIQLO MEN CHINO SHORTS
NEXT CHINO SHORTS
TOPMAN NAVY CHINO SHORTS
Skip: Full-On Floral
Call it the Gucci effect: ever since creative director Alessandro Michele took the helm of the Italian label, menswear across the board has become enamoured of the designer’s lavish head-to-toe florals.
Which are, it should be said, fine to wear if you’re an off-duty mafia don looking for something to set off the stuccoed walls of your Tuscan palazzo. Less so if your name’s Derek and you’re looking for something to throw on to meet your mates camped out in the beer garden.
Fix: A Floral Focal Point
Punchy and poles apart from the austerity of athleisure, floral patterns are the point of difference your warm-weather wardrobe needs.
But go easy. Limit your foliage to one piece – a tee, jacket or a pair of trousers – and make it the focal point of your outfit to avoid looking like a V&A exhibition gone walkabout.
Stuffy wool blazers and summer heat do not mix, making a lightweight, unlined jacket a priority addition to your formal wardrobe this season.
Opt for breathable linen, cotton or linen-cotton blends to ensure comfort in high temperatures, and stick to versatile shades such as navy or beige that you know will match with everything you already own.
Dress it up with sharply-cut trousers, a white Oxford button-down and textured tie for a summer wedding, or combine with lightweight denim and a plain tee for a night out.
IMAGE: J.CREW 2015
Recommended
Ludlow Sportcoat In Italian Cotton, available at J.Crew, priced £114.
5. White Trousers
White trousers are a menswear classic than many guys continue to shy away from.
Setting aside the practicality aspect, white trousers are extremely easy to wear and will anchor every colour under the sun, from primary red and yellow to sky blue and mint green.
The ideal way of making a statement without trying too hard, combine them with your linen shirt and lightweight blazer for a Riviera-inspired aesthetic, or team with a white piqué polo and minimal trainers for an on-trend all-white look.
It’s imperative you get the fit right with these – aim for a slim-cut style that hits just around the ankle.
IMAGE: REISS SS15
Recommended
Hampton Slim-Fit White Trousers, available at Reiss, priced £75.
6. Suede Loafers
One of our five footwear styles every man should own, the suede loafer is arguably the perfect smart-casual silhouette.
Lightweight, breathable and versatile, the suede loafer – whether tasselled or penny – looks just as good with a linen suit as it does a simple shorts and shirt combination. It’s also the perfect design for going sockless, helping bring a touch of continental flair to your summertime looks.
Opt for a pair in tan, beige or light brown for maximum wearability.
IMAGE: SUITSUPPLY SS15
Recommended
Brown Suede Tassel Loafer, available at Suitsupply, priced £199.
7. The Breton T-Shirt
Originally introduced as the official uniform of the French Navy, the Breton tee has gone on to cement itself as a true menswear icon over the past 100 years.
Now considered a wardrobe essential, this easy throw-on piece works seamlessly within a multitude of looks, from authentic nautical getups to smart Riviera-inspired ensembles.
With everyone from Picasso and James Dean to Ryan Gosling and David Beckham having been spotted in this classic, you’ll be in good company.
To help get you through the summer months in style, we’re set to highlight ten warm-weather classics that should be in every style-conscious gent’s capsule wardrobe.
If you don’t already own all of these, it’s time you added them to your shopping list.
1. The White Linen Shirt
Light, airy and breathable, the linen shirt is a definite must-have when it comes to keeping comfortable in the heat.
Not only will a white option work with a knitted tie for hot days in the city, it’s also ideal for rolling up and throwing in your suitcase for a summer getaway – wear it to the bar or by the pool, it will see you through any holiday scenario in style.
As the mercury rises, you’re going to want to let your legs breathe in a pair of shorts. And the most versatile style on the market has to be the slim-cut chino short, which looks just as good teamed with a short-sleeved shirt and pair of leather loafers as it does a plain white tee and trainers.
Opt for a pair in grey, khaki or navy and we guarantee you’ll be living in them for the next few months.
IMAGE: NEXT SS15
Recommended
Chino Shorts, available at Next, priced £15.
3. Tailored Swim Shorts
Swimwear has come a long way since the garish, baggy board shorts of the nineties, with many contemporary brands now producing designs that could quite easily be mistaken for chino shorts.
Typically cut slim through the leg and featuring an adjustable waistband (rather than a traditional elasticated drawstring waist) for a better drape, these tailored swim shorts not only look suave down by the pool, but can be paired with your linen shirt for sunset drinks at the bar.
Prioritise quick drying options to ensure comfort, and pick a timeless hue such as navy or black for ultimate versatility.
Transeasonal layering is not so much a trend as a necessity in these in between months. As the temperature starts to drop, the days of simple dressing become obsolete and we start to strategically layer our outfits to battle the multiple seasons that one-day can bring us.
Every year this trend makes an appearance on the runway and the streets so considering that this isn’t a new trend, you will probably have the basics down pat. You start off with cotton basics, build it up with thicker pieces and top it off with heavy, often wind resistant layer. However, if all of that sounds like a completely foreign concept, see our guide to master the basics before you move on to the 2015 trends.
A general rule when it comes to layering in 2015—more is more! Forget hiding everything under one big jacket or coat instead, go all out making each layer a statement. If you wear a scarf make it a big one, instead of one jacket layer it with another, steer away from greys and blacks and build your look in camel tones. Play with patterns and different textures this season and never blend in.
The Cinch
In the colder months it is easy to hide under big coats and straight cut pieces but this season it is all about keeping your shape and cinching your outfits at the waist. This means tying your coast jacket up tight, putting layers under your suit jacket and then buttoning it up and picking items that come with a belt.
Textures
In the colder months you tend to stick to thicker fabrics, heavy materials and leather, so why not combine all three? Wear an overcoat over your leather jacket or wear a velvet suit jacket under tweed. As long as you compliment the colours in each piece you will be sure to make this fresh take stick. It will add depth to your look and leave you with a polished a defined outfit.
Camel
This season it is all about camel. Work this neutral tone into your wardrobe with a coat, a leather jacket, pants, anything! It is hot off the runway and the streets of Pitti Uomo. It is a versatile colour that can easily be worn in a tonal colour scheme or as a statement piece. In 2015 try to steer away from black because it is all about the earthy tones spiced up with a pop of bright colour.
Hats
Men it is time to invest in a hat. Channel that old world elegance by wearing a fedora, panama, flat cap, or bowler. A hat is always one of the final layers in the transeasonal styling and easy to forget but if you stick with it, it will add a final touch of class to your outfit.
Scarves
Scarves are not a new addition to the transeasonal but this year they are bigger and better. Forget small cotton or silk scarves in trend2015 you want to be wearing chunky knits or blanket wraps. If you are not cold enough to wear something this heavy you can still make a statement with a bright colour or pattern. Regardless if you decide on a long or short one, your scarf is no longer just an accessory this year it is its own layer.
Grey is quickly becoming one of the most popular colours for menswear this Autumn/Winter 2015. It may not sound like the most fashion-forward trend but grey has made a big impact on the runways. Designers across the boards have clearly drawn inspiration from this stormy hue and we have compiled the key pieces that you will need in your wardrobe this season.
Grey Suits
Grey feels most at home in tailoring and the colour is versatile, yet classic. Thanks to its versatility when it comes to choosing a grey suit all you really need to focus on is fit and colour — the best bet is a solid mid-grey colour.
If you’re looking for a suit with quality craftsmanship and detailing, Aquila may be your answer. Taking cues from European styling, Aquila suits comprise of timeless pieces including the Portland Slate pants, a slim fit cotton stretch chino, and the Portland Slate blazer, a smart notch lapel 2-button blazer, tailored with a single rear vent.
Layering is a key this season, so be sure to pick a suit that has a slim cut in the waist while still allowing for layering. This season we suggest styling your grey suit with either the classic shirt and wool tie combination, or a textured jumper and oversized scarf.
Get The Look
Grey Knitted Tops
The impressive thing about grey is that there are many ways to adapt and layer this shade. When the cold weather creeps in you want a garment that promises unrivalled warmth — and knitted tops offer just that.
There are a large variety of knitted styles on offer now, ranging from the classic crewneck to the V-neck, and their greatest attribute is their versatility. For evenings out you can wear your knitted top underneath a blazer or a coat, and on top of a classic collared shirt and woollen tie. If you are opting for a V-neck knit then be sure to pair it with a button-down collared shirt (leave the tie at home for a more casual look).
To stay on trend this season, pair your knitted top with an oversized coat, Zoot suits and large scarf. For more ideas draw some styling inspiration from the runways of Margaret Howell and Pringle, who prove just how well knitted tops work with layering.
This season men are looking to the 1950s and 60s for inspiration with hybrid looks making waves as styles embrace natural texture. Fades and undercuts are popular men’s hairstyletrends for 2015 and they are continuing to gain popularity with new varieties while the controversial man bun refuses to go away.
1. Contemporary Quiffs
From ducktails to King sized quiffs the pompadour has maintained its popularity throughout the ages due to its versatility. The style suits all face shapes and all ages and can be easily modernised. Justin Timberlake and David Beckman are both fans of the reworked, contemporary quiff. For a slick result spray Kérastase Laque Couture hairspray over the hair. It will hold even the most outrageous quiff in place.
This season the look has been refined with men are opting for contrast between the scalp exposing sides and back, and volume on top. Alternatively, if you want to stay true to the Rockabilly nature of this look ask your hairdresser to keep some length on the back and sides. If you have fine hair then try Toni &Guy Label M Volume Foam. The product will enhance the hair without weighing it down and is perfect for those seeking an extra boost.
2. Fades
The Fade is defined by the gradual increase of hair length from the neck to the crown. It is low maintenance but finding a skilled barber is essential for achieving this style. Comb over fades are gaining popularity as side parts make a comeback but by far the most popular fade of the season is the lower fade. The low fade removes weight but still retains the clean cut look. Try Kevin Murphy’s Smooth Again leave-in treatment for a glossy, touchable finish without the grease. For those wanting a little more body to work with keep some length at the top just like Adam Levine, Brad Pitt and Zayn Malik. These men are all fans of the fade but prefer the added length to play around with, creating a messed up look full of body and texture.
3. Buns
If you prefer longer locks then don’t fret because the ever popular Jared Leto man bun is still on-trend. In fact, the look refuses to go away. The style is bohemian and the less effort you put into this look the sexier it is. Men with both straight and curly hair can wear this look; however, if you prefer a smoother finish start by passing a GHD Platinum Styler through your hair first. This style has been on the radar for a while now so if you are already a top knot-devotee then perhaps the undercut/knot fusion is the change you need this season. To give an edge to your buns, try the undercut man bun look where the hair is kept long at the top of the head while the rest is clipped short.
4. Undercut
The edgy alternative is to lose the bun and choose an undercut while still keeping length on top. This look takes its roots from the pompadour but the quiff is subtle compared to its traditional brother. To keep everything in its place try Kiehl’s Creative Cream Wax to mould the lengthy ends into your desired shape.
Beth Ditto in her eponymous collection. Photo: Ezra Petronio/Beth Ditto
Beth Ditto understands the power of her words. It's a knowledge gained after a decade in the public eye as the singer of Gossip and as a fiercely outspoken advocate for LGBT causes and body positivity. When I met her on Monday in New York to talk about her new eponymous plus-size line, she was careful to avoid making generalizations about the plus-size industry, "fat activists" and even musicians turned designers. It was a refreshing humility from someone so confident both in person and on stage.
"'Flattering' is a hard word for me," she said, adding that she wasn't forbidding me from using it in this article. She prefers "accentuating." Ditto explained how a ruched seam along the back of a form-fitting skirt or dress emphasizes the butt and creates a "really good line" for the body. It's one of the many design elements she was careful to include in her new range that went live on BethDitto.com (and Selfridges in the UK) on Monday.
The 11-piece collection is available in U.S. size 14 through 28 and is priced between $65 and $395. With the exception of a vintage embroidered denim jacket, every piece is made in New York. "Other [plus-size lines] exist... there's so much online, but I wanted to do something that wasn't already there, something that isn't trendy," said Ditto. "[Something] you can feel good about buying." This isn't her first foray into fashion, though her first with absolute control. She designed two capsule collections with High Street store Evans in 2009 and 2010.
"I met with Torrid once and they never called me back, this was years ago, and I didn't want to order out of the catalogue, I didn't want to do that and I didn't have to with Evans," she said. "The team was amazing and all the intentions were great — it was really good fun." But she had to compromise, for example, when she wanted to put Miss Piggy on a shirt and the brand worried it would send the wrong message. "To me that's an incredible message, especially being a queer femme," she said. "To have to explain that was so strange, but that's where that was [at the time]."
A look from Beth Ditto's collection. Photo: Ezra Petronio/Beth Ditto
About eight months ago, Ditto found herself with some downtime between tours and albums and got a small group of friends together to dive into this project. Most of what she usually wears is custom, so she had a very clear idea of what she wanted to design. "Almost everything has to be made for me because there's nothing else," she said.
The plus-size fashion industry has advanced over the past few years, Ditto admitted, even though there still aren't enough options for plus-size customers. "We are marginalized," she said. "The more that fat people start to realize that they aren't unhealthy, lazy people like we've been told our whole f****ing lives... I think that's one of the big things. Being fat, to some people that's the worst thing in the world, but it's the best thing that ever happened to me — because it made me creative, resourceful, [it gave me] a sense of empathy for people or an otherness and it really grounds you."
Ditto's collection celebrates larger bodies by catering to them specifically with pieces such as the aforementioned ruched seams, a very high-waisted legging and a versatile caftan. "All of it has good give and is really well-built," she said. For the look book, Ditto enlisted longtime friend and supporter Katie Grand to style her and models Barbie Ferreria and Philomena Kwao.
It was Grand who orchestrated Ditto's runway appearance at Marc Jacobs's spring 2016 show as well. "She's always been 110% amazing to me," said Ditto, adding she was particularly excited to walk for Jacobs because the brand didn't ask her to perform — they just wanted her to model. "I think a lot of people would be like, 'What's it like to be fat and do that?'" she said. "But at the same time we're all people. And it was really fun and funny because I'm so short compared to those girls." Ditto followed it up with an appearance in the label's spring campaign, too.
So will Ditto be staging a runway show of her own in the future? "I'm so excited about the next [collection]," she said, implying this release is just the beginning. I suggested branching out into bridal in the future, but she responded that a big dream would be to tackle prom wear — a particularly underserved plus-size market. "I don't consider myself a part of fashion," she said. Looks like that's about to change. a
