Thứ Sáu, 19 tháng 2, 2016

ZAC POSEN MAKES AN IMPORTANT STATEMENT BY CASTING MODELS OF COLOR ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY


The fight for more diversity on Fashion Week runways, led by former modelBethann Hardison and voiced by many others, has been a long one; and year after year, the improvements made are marginal at best. Maybe a designer casts a couple of non-white models instead of zero.
But this season, with some exceptions of course, we've noticed an actual change. The mostly black casting — including OG supermodels Naomi Campbell and Veronica Webb — was probably the best thing about Kanye West's Yeezy Season 3 show, and Rihanna, Sophie Theallet and Chromat's Becca McCharen have all contributed to an increase in non-white models on the runways at New York Fashion Week. But the strongest statement so far was made by Zac Posen, whose model lineup on Monday night was comprised almost entirely of gorgeous models of color like Aya Jones, Aamito Lagum, Cindy Bruna, Riley Montana and Grace Bol.
Interestingly, the show was cast by Maida & Rami, an agency that has been criticized in the past for the lack of diversity in its model choices on big name runways like Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Raf Simons.
Posen was inspired by Princess Elizabeth of Toro, a Ugandan lawyer who became the first East African woman to be admitted to the English bar. She was also a successful model and covered American Vogue in 1968, and was briefly the foreign minister of Uganda in the 1970s. Black or white, she was an accomplished and beautiful woman — a perfect point of inspiration for a fashion designer. In his show notes, Posen noted her "kind nature, stunning appearance and exceptional intellect."
A look from Zac Posen's fall 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Zac Posen's fall 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree
Otherwise, there was no mention of the casting decision — just an explanation of the "study of couture geometrics of the 1930's" that was Posen's starting point for the clothes, made up of bias-cut dresses in embroidered cotton, and jewel tones with grays and saturated blues mixed in. The collection was lovely and, thanks to Posen's use of more lightweight fabrics in looser silhouettes, more casual than last season's eveningwear — but no less timeless.
The casting part of the equation felt more like a statement than a publicity stunt, and we hope it inspires Posen's fellow designers to follow suit. Non-white models are out there, and they deserve to be cast. And one could argue that as Fashion Week becomes more consumer-facing, it's even more important for a more diverse assortment of races, ages and body types to be represented.

LOTTIE MOSS LANDS FIRST MAGAZINE COVER FOR 'L'OFFICIEL'

L'Officiel March 2016 issue. Photo: Bryan Adams/L'Officiel
L'Officiel March 2016 issue. Photo: Bryan Adams/L'Officiel
Here on Fashion, we've covered every one of 18-year-old Lottie Moss's fashion career milestones: there was her first fashion editorial, her first runway appearance and her first major campaign; and of course we're here to bring you her latest one: her first glossy cover. Or, covers, rather, for the March issue of L'Officiel Netherlands. They grow up so fast, don't they?
Photographed by Bryan Adams, Kate Moss's younger half-sister appears on three covers — one of which features the Gucci dress that's become ubiquitous on spring glossies. She wears Prada and Dior in the other two, styled with low-key hair and a piercing gaze.
L'Officiel obviously asked Moss about her supermodel relative, and Moss obviously insisted that she's her own person: "I am who I am and I do what I want, whether that is modelling or anything else," she tells the magazine, according to The Daily Mail. "The success of my sister does not affect me in my choices. I feel no pressure in that respect."
Given that we're only halfway through February and she's already landed aVogue editorial, a Botkier contract and now this, it's shaping up to be a productive 2016 for Lottie Moss. See all three covers in the gallery below.

Thứ Tư, 17 tháng 2, 2016

MANSUR GAVRIEL INTRODUCES NEW BAG AND SHOE STYLES AT FASHION WEEK

A model sits alongside Mansur Gavriel's new Sun bag in a pair of matching slipper heels. Photo: Mansur Gavriel
A model sits alongside Mansur Gavriel's new Sun bag in a pair of matching slipper heels. Photo: Mansur Gavriel
Mansur Gavriel, maker of the famous — and still hard to find — minimalist bucket bag, held its second New York Fashion Week presentation in downtown Manhattan Monday, where designers Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel introduced two new bag shapes and five new shoe styles that are bound to get loyal followers panting.
In a two-tiered room painted Mansur Gavriel's signature pale pink, models swathed in soft camel walked about examining the styles on display, and lounging over bowls of fruit and couches the same delicate color as their clothes. In their hands were the two new bag shapes for fall 2016. The first of these, the Sun, is a top-handled bag threaded with a leather tie that comes in large, medium and mini sizes — in its largest incantation, it reads like a more modern, minimalist take on the Birkin, and would work well as a bag to tote to and from work. It comes in a lush suede as well as both calf and patent leather — the latter two materials are a first for the label. Other models carried a squarish, more vintage-inspired bag called the Elegant, featuring both a top-handle and a clasp, suitable for more formal occasions.
The Elegant bag in pink calf. Photo: Mansur Gavriel
The Elegant bag in pink calf. Photo: Mansur Gavriel
On their feet models wore matching shoes in five new styles: a Venetian loafer (in heel heights of 10mm and 30mm), a classic flat loafer, a pointed heel, a backless "heel slipper," a ballerina (in flat and 40mm) and, the most novel, a suede ankle boot lined with thick shearling, which ranged in heel height from flat to 90mm, with the taller styles featuring a platform sole. In light-colored suede, it may not be the most practical winter option, but it's certainly a very luxe and chic one. "We just wanted a really cozy winter boot that felt wearable," Mansur said before the show. "The boot we always wished we could have," Gavriel added.
Mansur and Gavriel have been especially busy as of late, supervising the delivery of their spring 2016 collection — the first to feature shoes — and designing this one. The company now has 18 employees, but all of the design and production is still handled entirely by the two of them. "It's getting challenging, we need to build that team," Mansur said. As for the promised ready-to-wear line? They're still working on finding the right partners.
The Sun bag and ankle boots on display. Photo: Mansur Gavriel
The Sun bag and ankle boots on display. Photo: Mansur Gavriel
For those of you hoping to get your hands on spring '16 shoes: Net-a-Porter has already received several styles, and will be receiving more over the next two weeks. A selection of other top-tier retailers — Opening Ceremony, Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Colette, Steven Alan Tribeca and Lane Crawford — are scheduled to receive deliveries around the same time, with the label's own e-commerce site to follow.
For a closer look at the fall 2016 collection, check out the slideshow below.

13 LOOKS WE LOVED FROM NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: DAY 5

From left to right: Maiyet. Photo: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images; Carolina Herrera. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images; The Row. Photo: The Row; Rosie Assoulin. Photo: Rosie Assoulin
From left to right: Maiyet. Photo: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images; Carolina Herrera. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images; The Row. Photo: The Row; Rosie Assoulin. Photo: Rosie Assoulin
It’s New York Fashion Week, which means the Fashionista team is running around town like crazy to bring you the best of what's new from the city's brightest designers. Read on for the looks we loved from the runways, and click here for even more reviews.

3.1 PHILLIP LIM

A look from 3.1 Phillip Lim's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Jemal Countess/Getty Images
A look from 3.1 Phillip Lim's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Jemal Countess/Getty Images
I'm very into the combination of textures and patterns on this asymmetrical tunic dress. — Chantal Fernandez

CAROLINA HERRERA

A look from Carolina Herrera's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images
A look from Carolina Herrera's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images
This seafoam green skirt is like a smoke cloud of prettiness. It also had a slight bounce to it as Lily Aldridge walked. — Chantal Fernandez

KAREN WALKER

A look from Karen Walker's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Karen Walker's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Imaxtree
This poppy red coat with a grid pattern and balloon sleeves is just the type of statement piece that can easily brighten up any woman's fall wardrobe. I love how it's styled with a belt to accentuate the waist, and the fact that it can likely be layered dozens of different ways. — Alyssa Vingan Klein

JI OH

A look from Ji Oh's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Ji Oh's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Imaxtree
Designer Ji Oh designs with the city girl in mind, and when I saw her fall presentation, I thought she found a way inside my own brain, too. I can easily see myself stomping through the New York streets in this cocoon-like ensemble. (See now, buy now, please?) The indented sleeves and heavy stripes are interesting updates to a classic crew neck and pair of culottes. —Maria Bobila
A look from Ji Oh's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Imaxtree
A look from Ji Oh's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Imaxtree
Oh used faux fur to accent a number of her looks — as pockets on shirts, an oversized varsity jacket and a smock-like tunic over a dress, to name a few. This was my favorite idea because it elevated the top's "cold shoulder" silhouette, but was seamlessly balanced with an asymmetrical panel skirt and creeper booties. — Maria Bobila

MAIYET

A look from Maiyet's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images
A look from Maiyet's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images
It's kind of hard to tell in this picture, but this Maiyet dress has a green sparkly embroidery all over the top. It's a simple silhouette with beautiful details. — Chantal Fernandez 

RAG & BONE

A look from Rag & Bone's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images
A look from Rag & Bone's fall/winter 2016 show. Photo: JP Yim/Getty Images


I love the way this masculine shirt dress still accentuates the hips. — Chantal Fernandez 

WHAT FASHION WEEK IS LIKE FOR ELAINE WELTEROTH, BEAUTY AND HEALTH DIRECTOR OF 'TEEN VOGUE'

Elaine Welteroth at last New York Fashion Week. Photo: Imaxtree
Elaine Welteroth at last New York Fashion Week. Photo: Imaxtree
The runways might get the most media coverage during New York Fashion Week, but for Teen Vogue's Beauty and Health Director Elaine Welteroth, what happens backstage, just hours before the actual show, is of equal importance. "I think these moments to connect with [makeup artists and hairstylists], no matter how short or rushed, really have immeasurable value... It really helps guide some of our coverage for the next few months," she tells Fashionista. Backstage is not only only a great opportunity to learn more about the latest beauty trends, but also to scout out new talents, such as Imaan Hammam and Aya Jones. "At Teen Vogue, we're all about girls who own their confidence." On top of her NYFW schedule, which also includes post-show events and dinners, Welteroth is also expected to manage all of her regular editorial duties. 
We caught up with her pre-NYFW to chat about the early backstage call times, dressing for the week and translating runway looks into digestible Teen Voguecontent.
When do you begin to prep for fashion week? Could you describe the process?
I would say at least two weeks before fashion week. We have a team meeting and talk about the types of things that we want to cover. We come up with one set of questions that we ask every model [and] every makeup artist. This time, we're looking for unexpected products and tools that makeup artists and hairstylists use backstage. We also meet with our social media director and work out a strategy.
How do you decide which shows to go to?
The beauty team gets lists from different brands that are sponsoring shows. As far as the shows that we're most excited to cover at Teen Vogue, Jeremy Scott is a really important show for us. He's had a lot of Teen Voguecelebrities sitting in the front row. And of course, the more directional shows like Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs, or in the case of last season, Givenchy. Any show that Guido or Pat McGrath is at is a top priority. 
As a beauty editor, are you backstage most of the time?
I like to cover backstage and front-of-house for the same show, but I think every editor has their own approach.
What are your hours like during fashion week?
Crazy. Usually, the backstage call times are anywhere between two to three hours before the show. You might have a call time at 6:45 a.m. or 7:15 a.m. and it's really important for beauty editors to be there because it might be the only opportunity you have to get a soundbite from someone like Pat McGrath or Guido. And then [the shows] run all the way through until the last show [which] usually starts around 8 p.m. And then after that, there's lots of dinners that are important for us to attend and if there was something particularly noteworthy that day that requires an online story, it's your job to make sure that is filed before you go to bed.
Elaine Welteroth (left) with Bethann Hardison (right) at the NYFW HQ last season. Photo: Robin Marchant/Getty Images
Elaine Welteroth (left) with Bethann Hardison (right) at the NYFW HQ last season. Photo: Robin Marchant/Getty Images
I've noticed that you frequently post photos of models of color during NYFW. Do you keep an eye out for that?
I definitely capitalize on the opportunity to interview them [and] I hand over my phone to them and let them take selfies and videos. When I'm backstage, I'm looking for that extra sort of "It" factor — someone who's really comfortable in her skin and who has something to say [or] offer even if it's a cool element of their look. They're not just clones of each other, which is sometimes how they appear on the runway.  And as of late, we've just had great fortune to work with some of the best new models who happen to be models of color.

Thứ Năm, 4 tháng 2, 2016

17 Office Outfits For Guaranteed Summer Success

17 Office Outfits For Guaranteed Summer Success | CorporateFashionista.com
Summertime isn’t all bikinis, beaches, and vacations. You’ve got things you want to accomplish career-wise too.
Whether you’re introducing new corporate strategy at the office or signing your next deal at the company picnic, you clearly value style as a dynamic tool.
If there’s a singular challenge to career wear in summer it is how to wear stylish looks that are comfortable yet polished.
One minute you’re perspiring profusely in the heat and the next you find yourself sitting near an air conditioning vent, freezing cold. Plus! Given today’s climate changes, Monday may be scorching hot, Tuesday mild, and Wednesday cool. Thursday and Friday, who knows?!
Well, get ready for some serious summer style inspiration.
I’ve put together a collection of corporate, creative, and casual looks for you, guaranteed to support your vocational goals while making your summer career style spectacular:
17 Office Outfits For Guaranteed Summer Success | CorporateFashionista.com
Suit up in style! Jacey superbly wears a quintessential power suit…in white. Perfect for warmer months. Its modern silhouette is fitted yet relaxed. She pairs it with matching pumps and handbag. Swap the head-to-toe white ensemble with all-navy, all-black or all-tan, as preferred. [Damsel In Dior]
17 Office Outfits For Guaranteed Summer Success | CorporateFashionista.com
Utility blouses are a great addition to a professional woman’s wardrobe. Dress them up or down. Plus! Optional straps keep sleeves conveniently rolled up as desired. Sheila looks divine in hers and beautifully styles it with a complementary summery tweed pencil skirt. Her delicate turquoise necklace brilliantly completes the look. [Kreyola’s Journeys]

Quick Ways To Transition Into Fall Workwear

Quick Ways To Transition Into Fall Workwear | CorporateFashionista.com
As summer comes to an end, now is a favored time to begin wearing fall fashions. The challenge is figuring out what to wear to work amidst daily weather fluctuations – one day is cool, the next is warm…and the day after may include rain.
The fastest way to comfortably transition your weekday wardrobe into fall is to slowly incorporate seasonal pieces. Start by simply adding one (or two) fall trends.
Here are some career-friendly ideas to quickly get you started:
  • Swap Tops: Try a fall-colored burgundyolivetealpine greengraycamelblack or navyblouse, top or short-sleeve sweater. Pair it with your summery navy pencil skirt, white pants (yes, white is acceptable after Labor Day!), or culottes.
  • Substitute Dresses: Replace polka dots and pastels with dresses featuring fall prints, textures, and color palettes. Wear a dark, botanical, tie-neck dress; a sleeveless, wool sheath; or cool-tone shirtdress.
  • Switcheroo Accessories: Exchange your summertime sandals with fall color tones and materials like suede pumpsd’Orsay flats, or sliponsanimal prints, or trendy strappy flats. Ditto with handbags. Trade your warm weather canvas or woven bag with a buttery, leathersaddlebagcrossbodysatchel or tote bag.
  • Shift Outerwear: Layer your work wardrobe with a flowy, fall scarf, seasonal cardigan, sleeveless waistcoatstructured (love this one and this one too) or zippered jacket, anorak,trenchcoat, or light-colored wool coat.